If it's of any help I've uploaded a copy of the English language version of the MD65/SD300 manual to my Dropbox folder. Download mp3 gratis lagu barat. You can download it from here:Edit Jo: Link removed due to possible breach of copyrightI don't own this lathe so can't give any hands-on help for this. I do own a Hobbymat milling machine though, hence my interest in the brand.Note — Dropbox is a file storage facility for sharing files. It's a bit like Photobucket except it's for files generally rather than photos. As it's technically a copyright document I'll only leave it there for a week.Joe. Sorry about that Jo.Actually, I only sourced the manual from the Yahoo Groups covering Hobbymat/Prazi machines. These are:Prazi-Machining —Prazi Mill and Lathe —People interested will need to join the Groups and it may take a day or two for membership to register.
Once that's done you can access the Files/Photos archive sections for useful stuff.Incidentally, although these machines were mostly sold in the UK under the Hobbymat badge, in Europe and N. America they were generally badged as Prazi — hence the Prazi connection.Joe.
28mm summilux vs summicron. I picked up a used Prazi SD300 last night. The fellow bought it a few years ago and never used it.I cleaned up the dust that was on it. Took it all apart and lubed it.
Top Slide Hobbymat Sd300 CameraTop Slide Hobbymat Sd300 Motor
Tightened everything up and it runs beautifully!I saw the need to modify a few areas to start.A new handle for the lead screw engagement:A handle to lock the quill. Brazed a piece of drill rod to the allen head bolt, bent it and turned a handle of 6061 aluminum:Did the same for the tail stock lock:Added a little piece of rod for it to rest against:Nice little lathe for small work. Making firing pins, muzzle brakes, pins, and other small parts. But it won't replace my JET.Surface finish is no way near what my JET can produce and of course it is very slow. No hogging of large bites of material.Stock Picture.Didn't take a picture of the whole lathe while in the shop.
SAaupe Mini-Turn MD200 Latheemail:SAUPE Mini-Turn MD200A greatly simplified version of the better-known and lacking both a multi-speed drive system and power feed to the carriage, the Saupe Mini-Turn MD200 appears to have been a low-cost machine confined to the mainland European market. In place of the eight speeds of the Hobbymat, which spanned 250 to 2000 r.p.m., the Mini-Turn made do with just three, direct from the motor to an overhung pulley on the end of the headstock spindle. The speeds, 560, 1000 and 2000 r.p.m., were rather high and thus limited the machine to a rather narrow range of work. Also missing was a swivelling top slide and the power feed to the carriage, the lathe becoming in effect a plain-turning type - again greatly reducing its usefulness and versatility in a modeller's workshop.
Hobbymat Md65 Modifications
Instead of the carriage-drive screw passing down the front of the bed, as on the MD65, on the Saupe it ran along the rear, being supported by a plate bolted to the end of the bed and 'overhung' where it passed through the rear of the carriage casting.Some high-resolution picture - may be slow to loadThe very basic Saupe MD200 miniature latheIn place of the eight speeds of the Hobbymat, that spanned 250 to 2000 r.p.m., the Mini-Turn made do with just three, direct from the motor to an overhung pulley on the end of the headstock spindle. The speeds, 560, 1000 and 2000 r.p.m., were rather high - thus limiting the machine to a rather narrow range work.Instead of the carriage-drive screw passing down the front of the bed, as on the MD65, on the Saupe it ran along the rear, being supported by a plate bolted to the end of the bed and 'overhung' where it passed through the rear of the carriage casting.email:SAUPE Mini-Turn MD200.
Last updated: 13 April 2017I bought this lathe second-hand in September 2013, along with the BFE65 mill head.
Last update: 7 September 2016I need a steady rest for my lathe in order to machine circlip grooves into the ends of aluminium tubes (for rocket motor casings). I decided to make my own as the lathe did not come with one, and the stock one looked weak and did not have the diameter I needed (65mm).I started a new topic in the Yahoo Group, and uploaded some.DesignAfter deciding to make a steady rest, I spent some time reviewing designs online. I searched for “lathe steady rest” in Google images, then clicked on interesting looking stuff. I settled on this design as I thought having screw-adjustable fingers would be very helpful during set-up – and this proved to be the case.I fiddled endlessly with different designs for the base in SolidWorks. The final design was influenced by the availability of materials and my abilities with the lathe and mill. The finger design also meant I could make two sets of fingers – one with roller tips (with Delrin boots, for use with aluminium), and one with phosphor bronze tips (for use with steel).Having used the steady on various projects, I’d call the design a success.
However I had to trim the bottom of the removable way-clamp piece considerably to clear the lathe deck and leadscrew – if I were to make it again, I would use two M6 screws instead of the single M8 in the design below. This would allow the removable piece to be made smaller.I did destroy a couple of the bearings during my early attempts to set it up on the lathe. This was no problem as they are easily replaced, but the steady does take some time and care to set up (I guess this is so for all steadies?).Version 5 of the design, including way bar. The fingers need finishing with the adjusting screws. Mrs Naut: “You’ve been staring at that THING for days – what is it?!”Here is v5 on the lathe – looks sturdy and well-proportioned (just like Mrs Naut).I also did something I have been wanting to try for some time: made an assembly animation in SolidWorks. It’s a bit clunky but overall I’ve very happy with the results.
In the final design I used two M5 long capscrews and not four short ones as in the video – I tapped the holes in the removable piece.Way bar clampThe D-bar design of the lathe, combined with the close proximity of the leadscrew, made this section a bit of a challenge. May 2014After a loooong delay due to moving house, I finally got the rebuilt lathe set up and running (an article on the rebuild is ).I can see that owning a lathe is a hobby in itself: I am busy with projects to improve and modify the lathe, the projects I bought the lathe for (rocket parts) have been put on hold temporarily.
It is all the more tempting to spend time modifying the lathe because it can make its own parts – this is immensely pleasing and addictive.Learning experienceThis was my first time using a lathe. If this is also your first time, I can highly recommend Harold Halls’ excellent book:. Last updated: 13 April 2017I bought this lathe second-hand in September 2013, along with the BFE65 mill head.
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